06/01/2014 at 5:50 am #176589796
Yep, I messed up, yep I have an interlock, and I would absolutely rate it as the worst part of the DUI experience. It is truly awful in every regard. You’ll never see me complain about any of the other consequences, but this one makes my blood boil with the constant problems from the infallible device.
No law states I have to drive. The bus route that literally goes by work, and within a mile of my apartment, the grocer by my job, and the restaurants surrounding my job have made it simple to just not tempt fate. I get 12 aborts on average before it registers. That comes down to seconds of a violation.
Well, fate doesn’t like being ignored, because my battery died. Not sure why my trickle charger didn’t work, but it didn’t, so when I went out to test my battery a month ago and found it dead I waited until this week, bought a new battery, and installed it. Well talk about PISSING that IID off. I’m not sure what to do, but my car goes APE SH*T the instant the negative lead connects. I get a huge spark, the horn starts blaring, and the brights come on. I haven’t really checked the device, due to the evident coming of the apocalypse my vehicle is warning me about, but this ain’t my first rodeo on changing or disconnecting a battery, there is no other explanation I can think of other than that this is perceived as tampering. In the guide I consulted today it warns against disconnection of power.
So now I have a car in a garage facing forward that I can’t put in neutral, or even power that I must get across the city Friday afternoon.
What do I do?
I tried to call guardian corporate, but the toll free number on their website goes to a dating hotline. I’ll call the local shop tomorrow.
07/01/2014 at 11:14 pm #176597514
What state are you in?
08/01/2014 at 11:47 pm #176597517
After more research I have to admit, it was actually my car alarm. I called them and they said its not hooked in to those systems (horn, lights) so it shouldn’t affect them, Honda said connecting a battery shouldn’t set off any alarms. Messing with the alarm button got it to work so I guess Honda was wrong, or theres something in this latest model that’s on the same circuit. Regardless, I’ve got power now.
But I’ve got the ‘No Base’ issue now. Gah this thing is driving me insane. I looked into having it removed and paying out the contract, DPS and my lawyer said it shouldn’t be a problem. But neither were sure if there was fine print somewhere preventing it. I’ve only got 6 months total, and I’m starting my 4th. Honestly its like a babysitting job. I’d rather just disconnect my new battery and park it for 3 months. Only time I drive is to check in. I’d play ball if it wasn’t for the rolling retest and if it accepted input in the first few tries.
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