The Anti-Corona

It’s hard to sustain a state of panic, a sense of imminent doom, when the sun is shining, the breeze is warm — and you’re getting your classic car ready for spring.

This necessary therapy is indeed, an annual ritual. Like the first green shoots and buds on the trees, it marks the end of the dead season and the beginning of a new beginning. We could all use a lot of that right now.

The basics first:

  • Air up the tires
  • Check all the fluids
  • A general walk-around and close inspection

Cars that sit for weeks and months have different needs and develop different problems than regularly used cars.

For example, there’s more to check than just the air in the tires. Cars that are driven regularly usually wear out their tires before the tires age out. Cars that aren’t routinely driven often have tires with plenty of tread but hairline cracks on the sidewall and maybe also structural deterioration you can’t even see—the result of age and oxidation of the compounds that make rubber pliable.

My car is driven maybe 500 miles each year. Its tires will never go bald. Well, perhaps the rear tires will from burnouts, but you get the point. Unless you drive your classic car at least a few thousand miles each year, it is very likely the tires you buy today will still have most of their tread a decade or even two from now. But by that time, they may no longer be safe to drive on.

If you see cracks, it’s a clue that it’s time for new rubber. Send the old ones to Valhalla via celebratory burnouts!

I next check all the lights. Head and brake and tail and turn. Hi and low beam. Make sure they all work before you drive.

The cost of a turn signal bulb is much lower than a ticket or the cost of body and paint work (plus increased insurance rates) for your classic car due to an accident.

Oil and filter change. My practice is every spring, regardless of mileage. As with tires, the passage of time is the determining factor here. The oil does not wear out—certainly not after 500 miles (or less) of driving in a year, but it does get contaminated. By gas especially, which inevitably leaks down into the crankcase from the carburetor — a fuel delivery device that most cars made before the mid-1980s used. And by short-distance driving. Older cars do not warm up as quickly as modern cars, which are specifically designed in order to lower their emissions. Older cars weren’t and if driven short distances or just fired up and allowed to idle a while in the garage during the winter months will accumulate things in the crankcase that are not good for them.

Changing the oil and filter purges out the not-good-things, and the fresh oil coats all those essential things with the lubricants and anti-wear additives your old car’s engine deserves. If it’s an engine with a flat-tappet camshaft (which is almost all American car engines made before the early ’80s), it is imperative to get oil that has the zinc/manganese additives (ZDDP). Off-the-shelf oils no longer have this important additive for emissions control reasons. AMSOIL sells such oil (see their ZRod line), or you can buy the additive to add to off-the-shelf oil.

Three other fluids to check are coolant, brake, and transmission fluid.

The years roll by fast, and it is easy to forget how long since these were last changed. Keeping a logbook with dates and what you did is extremely helpful here. Check the fluids and then check the book. Deal with each as necessary, which will be differently vital than the original factory service recommendations because those didn’t anticipate a car that mostly stays hunkered down in a garage. Once again, forget the mileage and focus on the time. I replace the above three every three years, regardless of what the odometer says.

What the calendar says matters more.

Pre-flight done, the next part is the gratifying part——the once-annual wash. I avoid getting my old car wet, whether by weather or by hose because water is a rust-accelerant. A wash, though, is periodically needed to really clean the car. In between, one can use waterless wash products, “detailer in a can,” but accumulated heavy dust and other such stuff is better dealt by using good old H2O.

And there is joy to be had, out in the warm sunshine that is not too hot—going over the panels you know so well, like that one special woman, but this one never gets old even though many decades have passed.

Towel her off, the car, I mean, and then it’s time for a drive. Your excuse here is to blow-dry the crevices, to get all the water out. But there’s an even more important reason, especially this season.


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One Response to “The Anti-Corona”

  1. Greg says:

    I change the oil in November immediately before parking the car for the winter, figuring that a six month bath in clean oil is the better idea. Just saying.